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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/13/22 17:56, Aaron C. de Bruyn via
NANOG wrote:<br>
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<div>I bought one of those power monitors and tossed it on the
circuit that goes into my house. At *night* when everything
is off, I might get down as far as ~800 watts.</div>
<div>During the day it's more like 2,000-3,500. <br>
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Almost the same here... down to about 700W between 11PM - 4:30AM,
and mostly 1,500W - 2,000W during the day, unless the Mrs. wants to
grill some chicken or do some baking in the oven that day.<br>
<br>
Fair point, it's a family of 4 + 1, so...<br>
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<div> If I get the hat-trick (water heater, central air, and
well pump) running at the same time, I can get up to ~24,000
watts.</div>
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Ouch!<br>
<br>
For our traditional water heater, we're using a system that can
power the tank elements either via its own independent PV array or
via the grid (where the grid is either the main house's PV array or
the utility):<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://www.geyserworx.co.za/" moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.geyserworx.co.za/</a><br>
<br>
I, then, added tankless, on-demand gas heaters into the mix, and
piped that into the house:<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://gasgeysers.co.za/qr/20lt-room-sealed-fan-forced-gas-geyser/"
moz-do-not-send="true">https://gasgeysers.co.za/qr/20lt-room-sealed-fan-forced-gas-geyser/</a><br>
<br>
I use a solenoid valve attached to a little IoT thingie to switch
between the tankless gas heater and the traditional tank, depending
on time-of-day. Tankless heater on at 8PM - 10:30AM, and traditional
tank on at 10:31AM - 7:59PM (unless we had poor solar yield that day
and it didn't heat up enough).<br>
<br>
In all, we haven't had to use the utility to heat water since we
went this route. Saved tons of cash, and guarantees a hot shower any
day, any weather.<br>
<br>
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<div>I definitely notice it when the power goes out. The
sound of UPS relays and alarms is enough to wake the dead.</div>
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For my setup, even if we generally can transfer from utility grid to
battery backup between 0ms - 20ms, I attached UPS's to all sensitive
appliances in the house as an additional backup anyway (small ones,
1kVA - 2kVA, type-thing). The reason for that is if we have an
outage while the battery inverter is forming its grid from the
utility, there are instances where the power outage is not a clean
one (like a brownout, or slow low voltage event), and this would
trip the battery as the inverter tries to quickly re-form the grid
from the battery (230V/50Hz).<br>
<br>
In such cases, the battery would protect itself from a possible
short circuit, and shutdown for about 50ms, but that's long enough
to power down the inverter, and it would take 60 seconds for it to
restart. During that time, the UPS's will keep appliances running
(Internet, TV, computers, consoles, a/v, e.t.c.).<br>
<br>
Of course, if a utility outage occurred when the inverter was
forming its grid from the battery, then we won't notice anything.<br>
<br>
I've added voltage sensors to the grid supply to cut the power
before the voltage gets too low, too quickly (cut at 219V), but that
only improved the situation slightly. There are other inverters that
have their own internal voltage sensors that could handle this far
better, but I preferred the model I went with for its data
management capabilities.<br>
<br>
Mark.<br>
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