<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif">A related question -- every now and then I run into SFPs where the bail / level has decided to come off, and now I've got a jammed SFP+ inna slot. I've often managed to wiggle the bail back in and use it to release the SFP, or used the tip of a small screwdriver to push down the release, but this doesn't always work... I've ended up with a few line cards/devices with some ports unusable because of this....</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif">The best tool I ever found for this is a Peterson 0.015 stainless steel hook pick (<a href="https://www.thinkpeterson.com/hook-5-stainless-0-015-slender/">https://www.thinkpeterson.com/hook-5-stainless-0-015-slender/</a>), or slender reach pick, but, well TSA/customs people get all twitchy when traveling with lockpicks (which is a separate issue, but let's not get into the politics here)</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif">Does anyone know of a purpose built tool for this? Something that won't get me on the additional screenings lists?</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif"><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Apr 23, 2021 at 1:36 PM Randy Carpenter <<a href="mailto:rcarpen@network1.net">rcarpen@network1.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><br>
The DACs with the metal release are definitely considerably more robust. They are, however, sometimes more difficult to unlatch to remove, particularly in scenarios with tightly-spaced ports.<br>
<br>
thanks,<br>
-Randy<br>
<br>
<br>
----- On Apr 23, 2021, at 12:45 PM, George Metz <a href="mailto:george.metz@gmail.com" target="_blank">george.metz@gmail.com</a> wrote:<br>
<br>
> One of the best DACs I've ever had - and I wish I could find them or<br>
> the manufacturer again - was one with a relatively thick metal T push<br>
> bar that you had to push in towards the switch to release the latch.<br>
> Almost impossible to break, and nearly as impossible to accidentally<br>
> get unplugged.<br>
> <br>
> On Fri, Apr 23, 2021 at 12:20 PM Alain Hebert <<a href="mailto:ahebert@pubnix.net" target="_blank">ahebert@pubnix.net</a>> wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> Hi,<br>
>><br>
>> That happened to me more often with the DAC cables I had the displeasure to deal<br>
>> with.<br>
>><br>
>> And yeah got old valve gap feeler gauge to the rescue =D<br>
>><br>
>> -----<br>
>> Alain Hebert <a href="mailto:ahebert@pubnix.net" target="_blank">ahebert@pubnix.net</a><br>
>> PubNIX Inc.<br>
>> 50 boul. St-Charles<br>
>> P.O. Box 26770 Beaconsfield, Quebec H9W 6G7<br>
>> Tel: 514-990-5911 <a href="http://www.pubnix.net" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.pubnix.net</a> Fax: 514-990-9443<br>
>><br>
>> On 4/23/21 11:51 AM, Ryland Kremeier wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> Hit the wrong reply button before, but we were able to get it removed by<br>
>> unscrewing the top latch and removing that first at an angle. Then the<br>
>> connector was able to be pulled straight out. Plastic was very thin on the pull<br>
>> tab and it snapped without much resistance.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Thank you,<br>
>><br>
>> -- Ryland<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> From: Eric Litvin<br>
>> Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 10:49 AM<br>
>> To: Joe Klein<br>
>> Cc: <a href="mailto:nanog@nanog.org" target="_blank">nanog@nanog.org</a><br>
>> Subject: Re: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Joe’s response is spot on. I would also suggest you look at the “latching<br>
>> finger” mechanism on a spare, then apply some of the techniques Joe suggests.<br>
>><br>
>> Eric<br>
>> Luma optics<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Sent from my iPhone<br>
>><br>
>> > On Apr 23, 2021, at 8:27 AM, Joe Klein <<a href="mailto:joe.klein@mischoice.com" target="_blank">joe.klein@mischoice.com</a>> wrote:<br>
>> ><br>
>> > Try shim stock or a feeler gauge between the plug and socket to work the<br>
>> > latching fingers. This isn't something that I've tried specifically in this<br>
>> > case.<br>
>> ><br>
>> > You might need to put a notch in the stock or feeler gauge so that you can work<br>
>> > the fingers from the backside. Kinda like that old trick of using a credit card<br>
>> > to prise a door latch, except this should work since there's no deadlatch. :)<br>
>> ><br>
>> > You might also try gently twisting a small screwdriver or spudger stick between<br>
>> > the plug and socket too to increase the gap between the socket and plug.<br>
>> ><br>
>> > -joe<br>
>> ><br>
>> > From: NANOG <nanog-bounces+joe.klein=<a href="mailto:mischoice.com@nanog.org" target="_blank">mischoice.com@nanog.org</a>> On Behalf Of<br>
>> > Ryland Kremeier<br>
>> > Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 09:31<br>
>> > To: <a href="mailto:nanog@nanog.org" target="_blank">nanog@nanog.org</a><br>
>> > Subject: Broken Mini-SAS cable removal?<br>
>> ><br>
>> ><br>
>> > External Mail<br>
>> ><br>
>> > Anyone here have experience removing a mini-SAS cable when the plastic tab has<br>
>> > broken off? Tried checking online but couldn't find anything.<br>
>> ><br>
>> > Thank you,<br>
>> > -- Ryland<br>
>> ><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
</blockquote></div><br clear="all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr">The computing scientist’s main challenge is not to get confused by the<br>complexities of his own making. <br> -- E. W. Dijkstra</div></div>