Reminder: Never connect a generator to home wiring without transfer switch

Forrest Christian (List Account) lists at packetflux.com
Thu Sep 2 06:20:36 UTC 2021


Let me clarify since this thread has resurrected itself.

In the northern climates where I live, almost 100% of the heat during
winter is either natural gas or propane.   It's either fan forced or hot
water.

In each case,  the amount of electricity consumed by a typical furnace is
well under 15 amps.  Like a few hundred watts for all but the biggest
furnaces.

When the power fails during the coldest part of the year the most critical
thing to keep running is the furnace.  You  can have frozen pipes and other
cold related damage in a relatively short time.   The amount of time is
irrelevant but think multiple hours not days.

We all have flashlights,  the fridge isn't a big issue (natural freezer
outdoors, and usually free ice) and so on.    But the furnace having power
is critical.

The quickest fastest way to get that furnace back on is to fire up a
generator or some other suitable power source and then hook the generator
up to it.

The problem is that people rarely think ahead,  so they're trying to come
up with a quick solution,  and most of them don't really understand
wiring.   Because,  by code,  the furnace may not be connected with a plug
and socket the homeowner has no option but to open up an electrical box and
try to figure out how to hook his generator up.   With the not uncommon
enough result of the generator trying to power the neighborhood.

The solution is dirt cheap.  Instead of requiring a hardwired connection,
move to a standard 120V 15A plug and socket connection.   Based on other
requirements in the code such as for a disconnecting means near the furnace
which this would replace as well,  the cost is likely to be zero.

Its not uncommon to see this done even though it is against code.  Whether
it will pass inspection depends on the attitude of the inspector.


On Wed, Sep 1, 2021, 10:13 PM Peter Beckman <beckman at angryox.com> wrote:

> On Tue, 31 Aug 2021, Forrest Christian (List Account) wrote:
>
> > I just wish the electrical code would permit or require certain low cost
> > things which make temporary generator connections more likely to be safe.
> >
> > For example, code requires most furnaces to be hardwired.  But a furnace
> is
> > one of the first things you want on a generator in an extended winter
> power
> > outage.   If instead of hardwired, the code required plug and socket
> > connections at each 120v furnace  then Joe homeowner would be more likely
> > to run an extension cord from his generator to his furnace instead of
> > trying to rig up his generator with a suicide cord.
>
>   Is $40-60 low cost enough for you for safe, temporary generator
> connections?
>
>      - Generator Interlock Kit: $20-25 (Safety)
>      - Breaker: $5 (30amp 120v) to $20 (60amp 240v) (Dedicated Power
> connection)
>      - Generator Power Inlet Input: $15 (indoor 120v) to $50 (outdoor 240v)
>
>      A Generator Interlock Kit is a few pieces of metal that, once
>      installed on your existing electrical panel, allows one to run
>      a properly-sized circuit and breaker to an outlet that you can plug
> your
>      120v or 240v generator inverter RV output into.
>
>      Add a Generator Power Inlet Input (indoor or outdoor) rated at 30Amp
>      240v NEMA L6-30P, for example, then plug your generator into that.
>
>      The Generator Interlock Kit physically prevents the mains from being
> on
>      when the generator Breaker is on. This is the safety component.
>
>      This seems affordable ($60 plus some wire and a few minutes inside
> your
>      electrical panel) and safe.
>
>      Add a few bucks to have your locality inspect and certify the work.
>
>   If this is too much, why? What would be easier while also being equally
> as
>   safe? This is work that, with a few minutes on YouTube, could do safely,
>   as long as the power is disconnected at the meter outside the home during
>   installation.
>
>   PS - I suppose you could also move all of your emergency 120v stuff to
> one
>   side of your panel and also provide only 120V to one side of your panel.
>   This would also reduce costs a bit.
>
>   Why believe me? In 2019 I read the NEC code and learned how to install a
>   60amp circuit for an electric charger. I did the work myself. I had it
>   inspected and certified by the county. I did so for about $100 total for
>   all parts and wire.
>
> Beckman
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Peter Beckman                                                  Internet Guy
> beckman at angryox.com
> http://www.angryox.com/
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
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